Collection of Images

Above: Looking up at the IFC Tower - Hong Kong's tallest building culminating on the *lucky* 88th Floor (number 8 is the luckiest digit in Cantonese meaning Lucky Son of a Bitch or Financial Success)

Below: Will proving to the locals that Gweilo's can jump, during a walk on one of the island's lovely hiking paths (Gweilo = White Ghost, a term from colonial days.)





More later!

Couple Thoughts

"Chicken Fingers"

Being a stranger in a stranger land you turn inward. In my case that means Heather. Over the past month we have visited wonderful places together, gotten lost together, woken up in hotel rooms with no windows, bargained for kiwi fruit in sign language, you get the idea. This is all wonderful. I love it, I mean what better way to spend your first year of marriage. Call it an extended honeymoon. That is, most of the time. Tonight was a different kind of example of why this is a great way to spend your first year of marriage together. Conflict resolution. We've just moved into our new apartment, and had our first "home meal" the entire trip. Granted there was no cooking involved, that will come in due time, but I bought us a cooked chicken with some side dishes. Heather was supposed to get napkins, but somehow forgot in the midst of chewing out her boss for more money, and shopping with my credit card for more boots. Figure that one out, she makes more money than me, and still I buy everything. Anyway, the one thing Heather did find time to buy was a new bed, OK, mattress, but we're only here for a year so it'll do. Heather is a freak about anything having to do with sleeping. Her pillows need to be fluffy, but still firm enough not to give her a stiff neck. The duvet cover needs to match the pillow cases, and ideally will be folded at the base of the bed over the bed spread which is in turn tucked in tight enough to cut the circulation off most mammalian life. This might not be weird to some people, but for me its weird. I didn't even know what half this stuff was before I started sharing a bed with her....on our wedding night. Anyway, we eat a nice meal of chicken, and naturally with no napkins in sight, and wearing my evening sweats as I often do, I wipe things down on my sweatpants. First bad move. I then finish off the green bean salad and leave the empty container on the counter. Second bad move. Finished, I retire to the new mattress and fluffy duvet to lie down and digest. Three strikes and you out. Heather burst through the bedroom opening, and proceeds to go Queen Latifah on my ass. Through the genuflection, and high pitched cacophony, the beratement over lack of manners, the demeaning commentary on my penchant for nose picking, the the only thing I could make out was, "Your greasy chicken fingers are on MY side of the bed!!!" Till death due us part.......yikes.

"India"

My first assignment for work has been to work as an "embedded" consultant at Merrill Lynch building out Merrill Lynch locations in mainland China (Beijing) and India (Mumbai and Chennai). This is a new experience to me as I have never worked for a client by sitting in their space, using their computers and phones, having an e-mail with their e-mail address, etc. Overall I think it will be a great experience because I don't have much corporate interiors experience, work on a team made up of 5 nationalities, have complete ownership of the project, and get to work in the two of the most important growth markets in the world. In addition the projects all are set to wrap up in the next three months leaving plenty of time for me to experience other things. Now all that said, this is easily the most exasperating work experience I have ever had. Without wanting to stereotype, it has been a total education on the cultural differences between Indians and the Chinese. Allow me to stereotype. Generally speaking both groups have much to learn from American efficiencies in management. There is far too much bureaucracy, fear of making decisions (this may also be a product of Merrill Lynch, but allow me to continue), and determining how to get things done. The difference lies in their attitudes about dealing with authority, ie. ME. The Chinese will listen to what you have to say, and then based upon how that relates to the "system" they have been taught, agree or disagree. If they disagree, they will debate the issue with you, and if convinced of your position move ahead. The Indians are totally different. They will listen to you, and then based upon how it relates to themselves, either agree or disagree. Generally a debate is useless, and you just have to wear them out, or yell at them...literally. Both are about covering their own ass, but Indians do it in a selfish uncompromising way compared to the Chinese. Now that said, I love their curried chicken. No, they are great people, and this is only my first impressions. Truly. Yet, it is also the opinion of everyone in my office. The Indian projects are DREADED assignments, and after sitting through a number of conference calls with a circus-like atmosphere where Ajit the project manager is calling in from a open air market with a freaking chicken squawking into the receiver, and Sonali the architect has a baby crying in the background, I find myself asking, THESE are the people that are supposedly threatening U.S supremacy?! They are unprofessional, disrespectful, seemingly uneducated, impossible to get a hold of. They're a disaster, and have a lot to learn. That said corporate strategists love them so what do I know. Hopefully I can travel there as part of these jobs, and have more to report. But in parting I'll leave you with this: my contact in India is a former military guy by the name Captain Sameer Bhagwat who insists that everyone call him Captain, and whose primary occupation is dealing out bribe money (provided by Merrill Lynch as "regulatory fees" to the local swinging dicks. Does this sound like a place you want to set up your company?

Quick thoughts:

1. No one over here uses UPS or FedEx, its all DHL. As in "Nadim, no worries, you'll have it tomorrow, I'm DHLing it". Could be worth looking into this stock

2. For lack of better programming Heather and I have stooped to watching MTV only its the Asian version so they'll have hip hop acts that will rap in Cantonese. Rappers look like such idiots no matter what they're saying.

3. Filipino's make up the largest ex-pat community here by far; 160,000 versus 80,000 for all other nationalities combined. They are almost exclusively housekeepers, nannies, or interestingly American cover bands. Heather and I took in our first Filipino act in the JW Marriott lounge this past Friday night. Yes, I know, we've come a long way, before you know it we'll be hitting the all you can eat dinner buffet at Howard Johnsons in Kowloon. Anyway, the act wasn't half bad, culminating with a duet with piano accompaniment of Lionel Richie's "Easy".

4. Heather and I (you start to see what I mean don't you) went on our first hike on Hong Kong island this past weekend, and it was magnificent. Look for pictures shortly. The contrast of tropical vegetation, and serenity with a monstrous skyline in the distant background is striking, and can only cause one to wonder how nice a place this island would be if no one ever discovered the calming effects of opium.

All for now, hope everybody is doing well. Love Heather and Will!!

First Impressions

One thing that has struck me (Will) particularly about Hong Kong is how reality has differed from perception. Prior to our arrival here I was led to believe that A) the place was massive B) everyone was short C) I better enjoy western food before I left because there was a shortage of meat and dairy produce. All three have proven erroneous to a various degree.

Yes, there are a lot of people here, but the community within which one "runs" as an expat (i.e. the international business world) is quite small. There is one neighborhood in which most of these people live and socialize, and only a couple professions in which you can be involved. Indeed, even locals here refer to Hong Kong as a small city, "Only 7 million people yes, quite small yes?", they will machine gun off to you, and then tell you to go to Shanghai to see a real city. To debunk the other two myths in short order: most people are not short, though when they are they REALLY are - my guess is mainland China has more of the stereotypical fascination with westerner's height - at least I hope, I mean I haven't had one damn autograph request, and finally, the food runs the complete gambit - a virtual United Nations of menu options. We ate at a place called Taco Loco the other night if this gives you any idea. On a more shameful note I will also add that in a sugar induced craving I walked into a Krispy Kreme and demanded a particularly warm looking gluttonous orb of sin. It was "quite nice" as my English co-worker might remark.

I'll hold off on more sweeping observations of Hong Kong - pictures speak a thousand words and with a little cooperation from this website we hope to get at least a hundred words worth of pictures up soon - but I will say only at this point that I am struck by the lack of historic appreciation.

Having only been to Europe, I arrived here with only that as a reference point for foreign lands. By that I mean, when I think of an old city, I think of London or Madrid. Or when I think of urban scenic beauty I think of the Acropolis or Hyde Park. Doesn't exist here. The oldest buildings here are dilapidated 1950's residential structures that resemble government built projects in Brooklyn because well, that's exactly what they are. As refugees trying to escape the "glorious revolution" arrived here the government built subsidized housing for them.

Apparently on the mainland its even worse because there they first tore down historic portions of city's and then built up the crap we see today. Mao wanted to take the Nation forward, and felt the first step towards this goal was to destroy the past. The open spaces here are not as disappointing, but because of the steep topography, parks on a grand scale that inspire are not possible. Yes, there are hikes you can take, but we have yet to do one that is reachable without first taking a bus or taxi. Now that said, these two negatives are balanced to a degree by the impressive modern buildings that have sprung up in the last 20 years. This is the city's emphasis, and for that it is truly a modern city. Its pace and "user friendly" atmosphere are enjoyable, but for me personally, I prefer a little history and a little space to unwind. Again, these are just first impressions.

A local 'grocery' store

Doing what they do best - imitation - pictured above, counterfeit Crocs. Alert Ash.


View from our interim accommodations - an impressive skyline.


Though colonized by the Brits, the Americans,too have left a mark contributing to the greater good by sharing our famous donut recipes and marketing tactics.

Peek-a-Boo

Following is a special culinary write-up for Chris Willis...

Visiting one medieval city 45 miles outside of Madrid wasn't enough, so we saw two. After Toledo we hit the town of Segovia. The highlight of this visit, and of our entire Spanish gastronomic experience altogether, was the peek-a-boo egg sandwich pictured below.

This sandwich, a novelty with its cut-out center proudly displaying an expertly concocted sunny side up egg, was enjoyed on a lazy Sunday afternoon while people watching on an outdoor patio in Segovia's Plaza Mayor. Will was in ecstasy as he proclaimed his Jamon and Toast to be the best egg-sandwich, ever.

First Stop, Madrid

Jan. 2, 2007 - After being deposited at JFK by Susan and John, and waiting through a several hour delay, we stepped into a large bullet that shot us across the Atlantic, and landed in Madrid. Though a bit groggy, we excitedly explored the city which was a festive European metropolis, ablaze with Christmas spirit and decor. Our menu included the standard tourist fare: The Royal Palace and Gardens - a 2,800 room palace built in the extravagant baroque style and it's equally impressive garden; The Prado Museum - featuring the works of Spanish masters including El Greco, Goya and Velasquez; The Parque del Retiro - a fantastic city park; and the central shopping district. All beautiful and reminding us of the European tradition of grand architecture and city planning.

On January 6 - known in Spain as the Epiphany - we took the highly efficient AVE train to the town of Toledo. Already mentioned was the merry nature of Madrid when we arrived which intensified on the Epiphany - a highly celebrated holiday when the Three Kings deposit gifts and candy in children's shoes. We were lucky enough to travel with a costumed assortment of the Three Kings and their entourage, media cameras included, to Toledo. The train was abuzz with their presence and the station absolutely packed when we arrived. Thousands of screaming children and fans greeted the candy armed troupe. As we walked into town, the Three Kings set off in a motorcade of scooters and convertibles - kindly chucking a healthy handful of hard candies at us as they tooted their horns and sped by. Pictures below include the "Kings", their motorcade and Toledo.

Above: The Parque del Retiro against the backdrop of historic Madrid.

Above: Front Door, The Royal Palace