Before I get started I wanted to issue an apology to my Mother In Law Susan who violated existing FAA, SAR, and other assorted International Laws to smuggle four sleeves of her famous chocolate chip cookies for our (primarily mine) eating enjoyment during their recent visit chronicled in an earlier blog. I neglected to mention this selfless act of bravery until she was safely out of the Country for fear it could have landed her in jail. The cookies are long gone, but the memory of their savory goodness will live on forever, thank you Susan!!
As I sit in my 12th story apartment perch looking out upon the Hong Kong din with its inferno charged 95% humidified air, enveloping the soon to be displaced hunchback shopkeeper, the parked Porsche of the expatriate investment banker, and all souls in between with equally ferocious abandon, I have only one thought: Domo Arigato. You see prior to the weekend of June 16th the only placement in my lexicon for this phrase would be the brilliant 1983 Styx concept album “Kilroy Was Here” which features the hit single “Domo Arigoto Mr. Roboto”. But after 24 years not only has the mystery as to its translation been solved, but the journey which brought us to Japan for this bit of enlightenment, resulted in one of the most wonderful four days we’ve been lucky enough to have enjoyed while living in Hong Kong. One compelling enough to leave me wishing I was there this very moment.
My knowledge, heretofore, of this proud island nation had been limited to movies such as the underrated Michael Keaton smoothing over the cultural divide in Gung Ho, Bill Murray being lost in the cultural divide in Lost In Translation, and Dasuike Matsuzaka bridging the cultural divide as he leads the Red Sox to the 2007 World Series (I can’t deny it, I got a good feeling). Domo Arigato, or a formalized “thank you”, is just the first glimpse the outsider has of this divide with its ritualized social interaction towards outsiders. This treatment hardly has an alienating affect however, in fact it’s quite the opposite, you are made to feel like a guest of honor. Indeed after spending only a small amount of time there it became clear that Japanese are the cream of the crop in this part of the world. They are the only ones who both understand, and can afford, to preserve their cultural past while aggressively pursuing the future. The two blend with mutual celebration and respect as can be seen in the dichotomy of Tokyo and Kyoto, and Akasaka and Rappongi. Confused? It’s ok, just trying to flex a little Japanese knowledge on you. Although admittedly our trip merely scratched the surface, and I by no means left feeling like I understood the place, we both saw enough to decide we liked it and left vowing to return.
Tokyo and Kyoto - Nine Good Things to Know:
1. Narita International Airport is 50 miles from Tokyo. This would be like landing in Worcester if you were staying in Boston = rather large nuisance.
2. Ryokan: a traditional Japanese bed and breakfast style dwelling. You are cheating yourself if you don’t stay in one while visiting Kyoto. A trip highlight, though not for the sticker shy. We got to enjoy a traditional 11 course Japanese meal called Kaisecki which is a lot of fish and local veggies, don kimono’s, and sleep on floor mats. Bonsai!!!
3. Cabbies wear white gloves in cars with white linen seat covers. One could probably eat sushi off the back seat, I say go for it. You will need to bring directions written in Japanese with you as Jeevsi-san won’t speak the mother tongue.
4. The only ATM’s that will accept your filthy Western ATM card is Citibank. But unlike its adoptive step cousin the Philippines, Japan does understand the concept of a credit card.
5. If at all possible, try to travel with a blond girl, they’re catnip to the average Japanese male, and make getting directions a lot easier.
6. The street signs in Tokyo do not have names, and many of the hotel lobbies can be located halfway up a building. So don’t get frustrated if it takes you 25 minutes to find your hotel after being dropped off at it. It took us 30.
7. We thought the Japanese gardens were cooler than the temples and none better than Kyoto which was the only major city not bombed during the war
8. Japan is full of fun little technical superiorities that are basically useless, but have great "wow" appeal. No where is this more apparent than in the bathroom where almost all the toilets we encountered be they public, or private came with a panel that controlled a heated seat, and two different bidet settings for male or female (didn't really get this). The other feature we came across was a mirror which didn't fog over when you took a shower. Totally useless, but totally cool.
9. The trash truck crews are something to behold. They are a model of team work, committment, and hustle matched perhaps only by the Fenway grounds crew during the seventh inning stretch. It points to a larger social phenomenon in Japan where people take pride in whatever they do, and go unjudged. I could be naive here, but it seemed real to me, and I only wish people back in the States understood better the working class hero.
The 10th Anniversary Handover fireworks celebration, as seen from the Mid-Levels.
Out with friends from the office.
Enjoying a Junk ride - a standard summertime outing which includes a handful of people, an old boat and loads of food and drink.
Jumping off the Junk
